Kwass? Play? You? Football? Soccer? You?

Our boys quickly learned that all they needed was a soccer ball to instantly set up an hour (or more!) of fun.  Kwass (ball) was the one Amharic word they learned without me teaching them.  Amare would just walk around any group of kids and start asking them:  "Kwass?  You?  Play?  Football?  You?" From there no new language skills were needed, since "keeper" and "mano" and "out" and "GOAL!" were all common vocabulary, and teams could be made just with some pointing.  Any kid from teenagers on down were willing to jump in and kick the ball around (usually more boys than girls).  

The rain was only a deterrent because of mud's propensity to stick to kids' feet, and to get moms annoyed with the resulting filthy clothing.  Minor injuries were common and often a bit dramatic, but also involved lots of helping hands and encouraging pats on the back for a few seconds before the game was back on.  A rare day without soccer made for a grumpy Amare.

We were lucky enough to be in Addis for the World Cup qualifying game between Ethiopia and South Africa.  We spent all week getting ready: buying jerseys and setting up a taxi driver to acquire our tickets.  Unfortunately, the driver did not exactly come through with the tickets (folks were lined up for kilometers starting at 4 AM to buy cheap seats), so we decided to head go downtown anyway and watch the game on the giant screen outside the stadium.  The crowds were massive and SO EXCITED!  Everyone was covered in yellow, green and red, waving flags and blaring vuvuzelas -- quite a party atmosphere.  We wandered through the closed streets and then found a spot on the Meskel Square steps to watch the big screen.... and we waited, and we waited.  The screen never turned on, but instead we wound up watching riot police push the crowd on the street up onto the steps.  This was enough excitement for us, so we decided to go back to the guesthouse and watch the game from the comfort of cozy cushions and a smaller TV screen.  

Ethiopia wound up defeating South Africa, and it was a huge celebration!  Car horns and radios blared into the night and folks ran around cheering and singing nationalist songs.  It turned out that one of the Ethiopian players was on the field illegally because of yellow cards earned at a previous game, so the victory was forfeit.  At least this wasn't discovered until after everyone had a chance to celebrate and feel proud of their team!

Beach soccer!  On pumice sand for instant callous removal.

A rare occurrence of full-family soccer.

The livestock mowed the field at Common River,
so they had to be tolerated when it was their turn on the grass.

Abukah had some serious talent for a little dude.  

Sometimes the goalkeeper needs a break.

Gooooooaaaaal!

Coach Dave pretty much ran the games,
and he wound up teaching kids lots of the rules about goal kicks, etc.

It should come as no surprise,
but Amare and Zenebe's extended family is darn good at soccer!

Horizon House

AHOPE for Children

Critters: Lions, hippos and warthogs, oh my!

Hippos were a main wildlife attraction of our entire trip to Ethiopia; in fact, in the beginning stages of planning the trip, hippopotamus and injera were the main incentives for convincing the boys to embark on this adventure!   So of course we were all thrilled to see them! We took a lovely boat ride across Lake Awassa to see this giant and the rest of his/her(?) family.  There was a group of 6-10 of them near the Haile Resort.  A few nights later, we spotted one near the downtown shore, munching away on reeds (after we had exhausted our camera batteries on photographing birds; sorry!)

This is a dik-dik at the zoo on Sidist Kilo in Addis.  The zoo itself was pretty gruesome, but the boys did love petting this little guy, and he loved it, too!

We were pretty excited to walk up to this dude and pet him! Turns out that these tortoises are kept as pets all over the place. They are pretty awesome-looking, huh?

An Abyssinian "black" lion at the Born Free animal rescue park outside of Addis 

(they are a race of lions with black manes).  Our gracious guesthouse host Eyerusalem of Ababa's Villa took us there with some of her friends.  These felines looked a lot happier than the poor royal beasts in cages at the zoo.  

Hyenas abound in Ethiopia (particularly in legend and lore), and we could hear them at Common River, but only Dave saw an actual wild one cross the road in front of our car one night.  The boys and Em saw this baby at Born Free, who was oddly caged with a giant mastiff guard dog(?).  

The Natural History Museum in Addis has some rather bizarre taxidermied specimens of Ethiopian wildlife.  It was the perfect place to be during an afternoon rainstorm in the city, however.  

These gazelles live in the teeny-tiny protected area at the Abiata-Shala National Park, along with some warthog families who were too short to get a good photo of in all the tall grass.

And not to focus entirely on the charismatic megafauna, here are some endearing little creatures we found, too!

These colobus monkey families were in the fig trees at the Hawassa fish market.  The babies were frolicking as we left in the evening - does it get any cuter? (other than fuzzy baby donkeys, that is!)

  

These vervet monkeys are all over the lakeshore in Hawassa and are tame to the point of being a nuisance.  The one eating injera below was probably also the one that climbed up on the table in front of Dave, removed the spoon from the coffee cup and placed it on the saucer, and then ran off with cup!  Zenebe in particular found them unbearably hilarious!   A group of these guys were given some chat (a narcotic leaf people chew) in the parking lot, and antics ensued: sliding on windshields, munching car antenna, wrestling while dangling upside-down from a tree branch, and even - ahem - some behavior that prompted a review of how primate babies are made.   And since this post just became PG-13 anyway -- yes, that last photo is a Dave capturing some remarkable coloring!

Coffee grows on trees!

Well, coffee doesn't exactly grow on trees. Coffee berries grow on trees, but there are quite a few steps in the transition from tree to cup.  So, let's start at the beginning: the Coffea arabica tree.  In the Sidama region, folks interplant their coffee trees amongst their shady enset, bananas, beans, etc.  

There are plenty of mature groves like the one we are walking through in the photo, but folks are continually planting new seedlings and removing old trees.  We got to plant some baby coffee trees at Common River, in the hopes that we will return in a few years to enjoy the fruits!  

While we were there in June, the beans were still small and green, and won't be red and ready to pick till September.  They need to be cleaned and then dried in order to be

sold.  This will bring a burst of cash to the families that produce them, if they happen to get a good price the day they haul them to market.  In every town we passed through, we kept noticing mysterious, heavily-fortified empty buildings.  We eventually learned that they are for the coffee harvest!  This cash crop economy with a single annual harvest is a difficult thing to rely on for many families, especially since the harvest coincides with new year's festivities...

Dried coffee beans are stored and then sold year-round in village markets and at shops.  You can purchase them dried and still in their hulls (black round things in the lower left of the photo), or already husked, green beans (upper right).  

Fun factoid: Ethiopia consumes half of the coffee it produces.  That's an awful lot of buna!  The rest is exported and then roasted for lucky people like me.

Jah bless this bathroom! God bless this fly-whisk!

One of the cool things about Ethiopia is that many different religions seem to coexist fairly harmoniously.  This may be a disillusioned tourist farengi perspective, but neighboring mosques and churches are a nice thing to see, plus a little Rastafari presence for extra love.  The orthodox church is definitely the official, state-sanctioned version of godliness, and I suppose the Falasha Jewish population (who basically all moved to Israel) may not feel so much "harmonious coexistence"?  The evangelical church is pretty, well, evangelical in the south, and the traditional animist practices are fading fast...  So, well, maybe it's not all so harmonious, but it is diverse. 

We all loved the iconic orthodox art; just look at those angelic faces!  The boys used their spending money to buy themselves ornate meskel (cross) necklaces -- and soccer jerseys. (Soccer is a religion of great fanaticism worthy of a separate blog post.)  The city churches are surrounded by beggars and relic vendors: candles, robes, prayer books, crosses, iconic paintings, gum, bananas, pop music CDs, umbrellas...  I secretly coveted a sparkly processional parasol, but since I don't attend many Christian pilgrimages, I refrained from that purchase.

For the Rastafaris:
Ras Tafari, as commander Haile Selassie, addressing a group of students.  

ሸንቲ በት  
The imperial shenti bet 
(the palace is now part of the University)

The Holy Trinity Cathedral is pretty spectacular.  Commissioned by Holy Trinity himself (Haile Selassie), the artwork is impressive.  The church grounds include little museums full of relics and official gifts, including things like royal crowns, Olympic medals and fly-whisks. (Now that's a religious artifact I get! The damn flies probably deserve their own separate blog post, too.)

Sorry not to have a closer/better pic of the cool Holy Trinity mural above the altar,
but it is a functioning church and they were preparing the altar for services,
so it seemed a little gauche to run up with a flashing camera, no?

Gorgeous stained glass (if a little Euro-centric!)

Empress throne.

Kiddus Giyorgis slaying the dragon!  This icon is famous more because of the omnipresent billboards for St. George Beer [ቅዱስ ጊዮርጊስ ቢራ], but still a favorite icon for the non-beer drinking family members.  

St. George Cathedral drum.

A drum-shaped grave marker

Ancient Sidama warrior gravestones at Tiya.